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Monday, January 31, 2005 Question: Roasting Cocoa Beans A Reader Writes, asking, “I got 100 lbs of criollo type cacao beans from Nicaragua and have just started experimenting. I want to roast as little as possible to preserve all the good stuff but there is a green, or astringent leftover taste that may be due to insufficient roasting. My latest roast was in my oven at 200+F for 80 minutes. It is remotely possible that it has to do with the Sucanat that I am using for sweetener. One other matter-- oxalic acid (not good stuff) in cacao, let me know if you have any info. I suspect that roasting gets rid of much of it.” Wow, I appreciate that people are seriously into trying to roast cacao in small batches at home ... ... but first off I find it hard to believe that there are 100% Criollo beans in Nicaragua that are being raised commercially for export. If there are, that’s very cool and I would be interested in knowing the source (if you want to share it). The basic answer is that I suspect that you are seriously under-roasting your beans. Even though you are roasting for a very long time, a temperature that hovers around 200F will be too low to start the chemical reactions that convert the flavor precursor molecules developed during fermentation into a full chocolate flavor. While “low and slow” is the way to go with Criollo beans, this is probably too low. Another culprit may be that the beans are not fermented sufficiently, in which case no amount of roasting will bring out the full flavor of the beans. I don’t know that Sucanat is the problem (I assume you are adding it to the cocoa mass after shelling/winnowing, and grinding). Sucanat (evaporated cane juice) is often slightly less sweet then sugar that has been refined further, but the Sucanat would not by itself be enough to give you a green astringent leftover taste.
Posted by
on 01/31 at 10:29 AM
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